My new BLOG! www.123FoodGardening.blogspot.com
Reflections of Growing Season 2009
Fungus and Sweet Potatoes--- ick.
What is wrong with my sweet potatoes? (http://www.richmondregister.com/lifestylescommunity/local_story_301073528.html)
Amanda Sears
Register Columnist
Several people have either called or come by the office about their sweet potatoes recently. Their concern was with the dark discoloration on the surface of the sweet potatoes. Is there reason for concern? The answer is no. What you are seeing is a condition known as scurf. Scurf is a soil-bourne fungus that colonizes the skin of the sweet potato, causing purplish-brown-to-black lesions. These discolored areas are merely cosmetic injuries and the sweet potatoes are fine to eat.
Scurf is transmitted from infected mother roots to transplants and then to the field. Once there, it can persist in the soil for years. This fungi only effects sweet potatoes and its plant relatives, such as morning glory. Rainy conditions can increase the severity of the problem.
As a producer, be sure to use disease-free plants when transplanting. Consider using vine cuttings instead of root slips. Do not use transplants grown from sweet potatoes that contain scurf. Also, choose a field that has not grown sweet potatoes in the last three years. Thoroughly clean equipment after working in infected soil. This is a good practice whenever dealing with any soil-borne fungus.
If transplants are suspected of having this fungal disease, you can cut off some of the bottom portion of the slip, which is the area which will contain the fungus. If you choose to disinfect your slips with bleach, be sure to use a very diluted solution, such as one cap of bleach per gallon of water, then rinse thoroughly with pure water. If the solution is more concentrated, it could prove harmful to the slips.
There are certain fungicides that can be used pre-plant. If you are interested, please call me at the Madison County Extension Office, 623-4072.
So, are sweet potatoes safe to eat if they have scurf? Yes. In fact, I would feel confident eating them myself … especially if they are in the form of a pie!
First 'Light' Frost!
- hot peppers
- dry beans
- pie pumpkins
- acorn squash
- Papaya squash....amazing but true!
- beets
- herbs
- lettuce
- swiss chard
- malabar 'mock' spinach
Autumn in Virginia....
- Move my worm composter into the garage and give them some good things to munch on
- Clean up the garden, pull out dead plants and compost them, put away pots into the shed
- Add mulched up leaves to all beds (especially the garlic bed)
- Pick up some manure from a friend (If fresh let sit at least two months before you put on garden)
- Inventory my seeds to see what I have left
- Plant some kale and spinach seeds and see if they either sprout or will sprout in spring
- Sit back and say, "wow...what a year! I can have even more fun next year!"
Cherry Crisp Pie Recipe
- 1/2 a stick of butter
- 3/4 cup old fashioned oats
- 1/2 cup all purpose flour
- 1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
- 1/2 tsp cinnamon
- 2 cans (21 ounce) cherry pie filling (I plan to use my frozen cherries abit sweetened with sugar and some cornstarch)
- 1 graham cracker crust (premaid or make yourself)
Growing Garlic- Easy as 1,2,3
OK- how to plant garlic:
- Prepare the garlic cloves: Plant garlic form mid-September through mid October. Break the garlic bulb apart into individual cloves and soak them in a jar mixed with water, one tbsp baking soda, and one tablespoon of liquid seaweed (to prevent fungal disease and encourage vigorous growth).
- Prepare bed for planting: Garlic grows best in rich, well-drained soil. Push cloves down 3 inches and space 6-8 inches apart. Plant fat part of bulb down so that the slender tip is on top.
- Cover the garlic bed: Cover the cloves with 2 inches of soil and cover with 6-8 inches of compost, straw, or leaves. Shoots should poke through the mulch in 4-6 weeks. It will stop growing in winter and will resume in spring.
Speaking Engagement- November 13th!
Have you always wanted to grow your own food but felt overwhelmed at where to start? Do you think you don't have enough space or time to have a garden? In an easy and straighforward discussion, Linna will outline what elements are critical for food gardening, as well as provide some creative approaches to raising food. She will focus on methods that maximize both space and time to prove that anyone can raise their own healthy food.
Learn how to incorporate sustainable practices into your everyday lifestyle,
improve your quality of life, and save money while saving resources.
Yogi Tea!
Yogi Tea is also available in pre-mixed packages and in tea bags. Yogi Bhajan says about the tea, " If you take a really good amount of Yogi tea, it will keep your liver very well. It is said to help the liver. And when we started in the sixties, people who had drug habits, who couldn't even move, we put them on Yogi tea. Yogi tea is actually a combintation of foods. It is a tonic to the nervous system. It can help to balance your system when you are feeling out of balance. It has been used often as a remedy and a preventative measure colds, flu and diseases of the mucous membranes.
It can help women when they are experiencing menstrual discomfort, such as cramps of PMS symptoms. You can try making Yogi team with extra ginger when you are feeling a cold or the flu coming on.
- Black pepper is a blood purifier.
- Cardamon is for the colon. Together they support the brain cells.
- Cloves help support the nervous system.
- Cinnamon is good for the bones.
- Ginger helps strengthen the nervous system and is very good if you have a cold, flu, physical weakness.
Steak in a spoon- GROW MORE BEANS!
The October beans and most of the Flagrano flageolets are in the freezer, but still my garden is full of beans. As I gather pale pods of black-and-white Yin Yangs, I am amazed at the generosity of the sturdy little plants. Certainly I expected a nice harvest when I planted them, but their giving nature takes me by surprise.
And it's not just the 'Yin-Yangs.' Looking around, I find a bounty of forgotten beans worth gathering: abandoned French Duet pole filet beans holding blue-black seeds, and a few Peking Black crowder peas that reseeded themselves in a back corner of the garden.
Some of my finds seem too beautiful to eat, for example the nickel-size seeds hidden inside the long, leathery pods of Emperor scarlet runner beans. I toss them in the soup anyway. As they simmer in the company of summer's last tomatoes and peppers, their meatiness will make them seem like little steaks on a spoon.
The petite green limas are so precious that we eat them like garden caviar, slowly and in small amounts. They take forever to grow and are equally slow to shell, but there is no doubt that they are worth it. Besides, the bumblebees love them.
The biggest and best beans get set aside for replanting, but still it feels extravagant to be eating hundreds and hundreds of seeds. Satisfying, too, in a way that cannot be felt unless one grows the beans. You give them a home, bring them water when they need it, and step in when foxtail and crabgrass threaten to take over the planting.
It is a partnership in which you must keep up your end of the deal, and now you can claim your prize. As you run your hand through a bowl of drying beans, they might as well be gold coins. But what is the prize – the beans themselves, or the feeling of wealth that comes with having them? Either way, bean season is worth savoring.
Winter Garden Update- kale, kale and more kale!
- Vates Kale: 55 days. [Selected from 'Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch' by the VA/AES.] Planted spring or fall. Overwinters well in the Mid-Atlantic region. Resistant to yellowing due to frost or heat. This is our most flavorful variety of kale, best when steamed, and good fresh as a garnish or salad ingredient. Pkt.
- Red Russian Kale: 40 days. 'Red Russian' is an unusual and beautiful variety that grows 2' tall. Leaves are bitter-free, very tender, and are intersected by purple-pink veins, lightly tinged with purple on the margins. In cold weather the leaves turn reddish-purple and are very attractive. 'Red Russian' produces an early crop of very tender leaves. Pkt.
- Hanover Salad Kale: 30 days. An extra early, fast growing Siberian variety with large smooth leaves. When used fresh, this variety has a strong, but good flavor, mild when steamed. Harvest leaves when small and tender. Best for early spring salads before other varieties mature. Pkt.
"This is great variety for adding to salad mixes and overwintering." -Radish Bruce - Premier Kale: Replaces 'Smooth Long Standing'. When over-wintered, the plants remain compact while developing new growing points on the main stem. This results in a higher production of foliage for spring harvest. Plants resist bolting 3 to 4 weeks longer. A vigorous growing, smooth-leaved variety with deep green foliage and scalloped edges. Pkt.
- Mustard Tatsoi: 43 days. Rosettes of dark, thick green, oval-shaped leaves. Very attractive, easy to grow and long lasting. Excellent for stir-fry or salads. Pkt.
UPDATE: Here is a recipe from a friend for Kale and Bean soup!
Ingredients
- olive oil
- 6 garlic cloves
- onion
- 1 bunch of chopped raw kale (about 4 c)
- 4 c chicken broth
- 2 cans Italian beans (great northern, cannellini, navy), drained and washed
- 1 can of tomatoes (stewed, diced, whole)
- 1 can tomato sauce
- Italian herbs, salt and pepper to taste
- parmesean or romono cheese to top soup
In a large pot, heat olive oil. Add garlic, onion, and tomatoes. Saute until soft.
Add kale and saute until wilted.
Add broth, beans, herbs, salt and pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes.
To serve, ladel into bowls and top with shredded cheese. Enjoy your Tuscan farmhouse cuisine! Serves 6 - 8
Capturing the Autumn Harvest- APPLESAUCE!
- Wash apples - no need to peel. Make sure to scrub them well.
- Core them and drop apple pieces into a heavy pot with an inch or so of water.
- Cook until tender - keep heat low so not to scorch the pan or apples.
- Puree the soft mixture (Vitamix works PERFECTLY). Return puree into the pot and add sugar or honey to taste. You can also add seasonings like cinnamon and cloves etc.
- You can then freeze this and unfreeze as needed, but I like having it on my shelf so I hot packed them. I sterilized my jars and lids and put the hot applesauce in the jars and boiled them for 15 minutes. Once cooled the are good to go on my shelf! For more details on this, get the book Busy Person's Guide to Preserving Food, it rocks! (you can find it on my amazon page http://astore.amazon.com/wwwfoodscaper-20?%5Fencoding=UTF8&node=5)
**Note if you have a vitamix, which is a specialty blender, you don't need to core the apples. The blender will literally blend the seeds and core into your sauce. Great source of fiber! But please, don't try this with other blenders....the vitamix is one of its kind! (http://www.vitamix.com/)
Harvesting Sweet Potatoes
When to Harvest? Frost and cold weather can hurt sweet potatoes at harvesttime even though you might think they're insulated underground. When frost kills and blackens the vines aboveground, decay can start in on the dead vines and pass down to the roots. If your sweet potato plants suffer a frost one night, cut the vines off right above the soil first thing the next morning. This may let you leave the potatoes in the ground for a few more days without injury. Try to dig the sweet potatoes on a dry, overcast day. Leaving them in direct sun for long can open pathways of infection that will damage the crop in storage. Dig gently around the hills, starting from a few feet away, so as not to slash any wandering roots with your shovel or fork.
Let Them Cure: Let the potatoes dry on the ground for a couple of hours. If you dig late in the day, don't leave the roots out overnight; you risk damage from cold weather and moisture. Don't wash the potatoes after the harvest, either. Sort any badly cut or bruised potatoes to eat first (they won't keep) and sort the rest according to size in boxes or baskets to cure before storage. Curing can be done in 10 to 14 days by keeping sweet potatoes in a warm, dark place with some ventilation. The temperature should be 80° to 85° F with high humidity. Under these conditions, bruises and wounds will heal quickly, sealing out rot organisms. After curing, put the containers of sweet potatoes in a dry, well-ventilated area at 55° to 60° F with a relative humidity of 75 percent to 80 percent. Under ideal conditions, you can keep a mature crop until the next early harvest. If you can't store your sweet potatoes under these conditions, you may want to cook and freeze your harvest. Sweet potatoes bruise easily and can suffer quickly when handled in storage. It's best not to pick through them too often.
Silence now Broken......
- Bugs, bugs, varmits, and more bugs. Such a loopy season of bugs. The season started out wet and cold....stayed cool, got very hot.... kinda like a roller coaster
- Varmits caused alot of my crops to not make it on first attempt, I had to replant squash, beans, and endamame a few times.
- Corn. I grew it and it was beautiful. I was so excited to have fresh corn then a big wind blew in and knocked them all down!
- Squash bugs - they got my butternut squash AGAIN.
- Tomato blight- got me this year. Only enough tomas for eating -- not much for preserving.
- Expanded the garden ALOT.
- Grew dry beans and am so happy I did, a must for next year!
- Enough swiss chard to feed an Army!
- Grew a 'kitchen garden' right outside the front door and it was a huge success! More veggies closer to the house is a great idea.
Pie Cherries HARVESTING NOW!
Here is something I just pulled from Mother Earth News, didn't know they were so good for you!
"Recent university studies suggest that cherries can reduce pain caused by arthritis or muscle strain, help prevent Type 2 diabetes and possibly slow the growth of cancerous tumors: all great reasons to eat more cherries and even plant a few trees yourself."I will post some pics and recipes once I finish picking!
Garlic Scapes!
"If you are a garlic lover, but haven't ventured beyond the bulb, grab up some garlic scapes now while they're in season. These long, curly strands that resemble green beans gone wild are actually the early stalks from a garlic plant. Growers remove the scapes to encourage bigger bulb growth. Lucky for us. The scapes have a mild garlic flavor that works perfectly in soups, stir-fries, pestos or just a simple scape saute. When you see them at farm markets, bring some home to try in this quick dip that makes a perfect appetizer for an early
summer gathering."
"Garlic scapes are the flower/seed stalk that shoots up from the garlic bulb. I like the way they curl and from what I understand if they not cut off they will eventually straighten out and bloom. The reason they cut them off they is so the bulb can get more energy to grow bigger and better. The farmers’ markets and the CSA shares in this area are brimming with garlic scapes. Judging by the comments I heard at the market this morning, not everyone knows what they are or what to do with them. Tonight for dinner I’ll annoint them with some olive oil and grill them just like I do asparagus. They can be chopped thick or thin and added to salads and stir-fries. My favorite thing to do with them is to make garlic scape pesto. It is super easy to make and refrigerates well for several weeks in a well sealed jar. I also plan on popping some into the freezer to top off my winter soups. I use this pesto on brushetta, pasta, eggs, foccacia, and just about anything I grill like shrimp, salmon, chicken. It’s also fabulous added to mayonnaise and smeared on a big roast beef sandwich. Now I’m hungry!!! "
WHITE BEAN AND GARLIC SCAPES DIP
With motor running, slowly drizzle olive oil through feed tube and process until fairly smooth. Pulse in 2 or 3 tablespoons water, or more, until mixture is the consistency of a dip. Add more salt, pepper and/or lemon juice, if desired.
Spread out dip on a plate, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with more salt.
Choose scapes that are very young and tender, taking care to trim off the bottoms of the stems and the tips of the flower heads. The recipe that follows is best when made the day before serving and then refrigerated. Let it stand at room temperature before serving.
2 tablespoons virgin olive oil
Heat the oil in a broad sauté pan and add sugar. Stir to caramelize the sugar for about 2 to 3 minutes and add the scapes. Cover and sauté over a medium-high heat for no more than 3 minutes, occasionally shaking the pan to prevent the scapes from scorching. After 3 minutes, add the chopped tomatoes and wine. Stir the pan, then cover and reduce the heat to low; continue cooking 5 to 6 minutes, or until the scapes are tender but not soft. Season, then add the parsley and haloumi, and serve at room temperature.
Add drained chickpeas. Add 2-3 tablespoons sesame tahini.Add juice of 1 - 1 1/2 lemons, seeds removed.Add 1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, to taste. You (I) want it to have an edge, but not to be overtly "Hot."Add 1-2 teaspoons salt - I use kosher, but any will do. Salt to taste, not too much.Process until chickpeas are finely ground. You may want to taste at this point to see if more cayenne is needed. Note that the sauce will "heat up" as it sits.
Add 2-3 cups spinach or spicy greens or arugula, whatever you have, for more green color and to lighten the hummus. Process until finely ground and well integrated in sauce.
I also added 1 cup finely grated parmesan and a cup or so of pine nuts, also all ground in for another minute or two. You want the sauce to be smooth for dipping. The raw scapes resist chopping so they require a good deal of processing. The end result will still have a little texture from the scapes and the pine nuts - a good thing! As a dip, finish by putting dip in a bowl and dribbling fine extra virgin olive oil over it. As a future revision I would add some lightly toasted cumin seed: heat 1 teaspoon whole cumin seed in a skillet until it begins to be aromatic; grind it coarsely in a mortar; mix 1/2 in the dip. Sprinkle the remainder over the top.
This sauce / dip could as well be used as a pasta dressing or over a piece of fish to be baked. In this instance I served it as a dip in a bowl with peeled raw kohlrabi sliced thin and cut in half as chips. It got rave reviews.
Season is passing in front of my eyes!!
Quick update so I don't forget:
- Just noticed tart cherries are peak and ready to be picked!!
- Packed up 28 lbs of strawberries from Robs (picked three weeks ago), YUM! (SPENT $82.00)
- Thought I had an ant problem eating my beans.....instead realized I have a BUNNY ISSUE!
- Peas have peaked and are now finishing up (yummy season though)
- Sprite melons just not doing well.......saddness
- This week garlic scapes came out
- EAting lots of chard, YUM!
- Seeds in beets/carrot/lettuce bed not doing well......not sure if bugs or what
- Beans finally coming up after my ant/slug/bunny issue (still fighting this furry animal)
- New eggplant planted after the flea beetle ate last one
- cukes climing up, same with butternut squash
- Gold Rush squash in the ground
- Corn doing FAMOUSLY!
- Onion seeds didn't come up well
- Tomatoes finally doing well
- Straw bales doing well so far (acorn squash and tomatoes)
- Herb bed doing pretty well, not all my seeds came up
- Walkway garden is ROCKING......
That is it for now! Gotta pick some Cherrries! Pics coming soon!
Man.....this year is BIZARRE!
- Don't put out tomatoes and heat loving ANYTHING until you have 10 consecutive nights at 60 degrees. Tip from Gail. One of my tomato heirlooms didn't make it. Virginia coldness was just too much for this foreign variety :) Also my cukes and melons croked.
- Bugs- with all of the rain we have gotten I have one zillion ants in the garden. I also had flea beetles devour my egglplant. SLUGS are also attacking my beans and tomas! So this year my approach MUST be different. Last year I shared with the bugs, this year they want more and I need to fight back.
- Don't go crazy with internet gardening advice.....I poured baking soda over my beans to keep the ants away. Instead I killed the beans....oops. Next batch going in today.
Overall everything looks good though. Progress includes:
- heaps of strawberries! Harvesting now!
- Peas are now coming in....they all go right into my belly!
- Corn getting taller by the day.
- Acorn squash in the hay bales looking great.
- Herbs slowly coming up.
- Next batch of melon seeds sprouting in the garden.
- Squash bed built and 'cooking'.
- New bed for pollinating flowers and squash is built, needs one more tilling.
- Potatoes I planted last year are growing.
- Cukes are up as well!
- Kitchen garden planted along front path - no more flowers, only veggies this year!
Below are some random pics: - Blooming peas
- Kitchen garden. Growing golden chard, kale, and mini broccoli
- Acorn squash on hay bale
- Baby squash plants growing!
Full listing of Companion Planting
- Basil: Companion to tomatoes, dislikes rue. Repels flies and mosquitoes.
- Borage: Companion to tomatoes, squash, and strawberries; deters tomato worm
- Caraway: Plant here and thre; loosens soil.
- Catnip: Plant in borders; deters flea beetle.
- Camomile: Companion to cabbages and onions.
- Chervil: Companion to radish.
- Chives: Companion to carrots.
- Dead Nettle: Companion to potatoes; deters potato bug.
- Dill: Companion to cabbage; dislikes carrots
- Fennel: Most plants dislike it; plant away from gardens.
- Flax: Companion to carrots, potatoes; deters potato bug.
- Garlic: Plant near roses and raspberries; deteres Japanese beetles.
- Horseradish: Plant at corners of potato patch' deters potato bug.
- Henbit: General insect repellant.
- Hyssop: Companion to cabbage and grapes; deters cabbaage moth; dislikes radishes.
- Marigolds: Plant throughout garden; it discourages Mexican bean bettles, nematodes, and other insects. The workhorse of companion plants.
- Mole Plant: Deters moles and mice if planted around garden.
- Nasturtium: Companion to radishes, cabbage, and cucurbits; plant under fruit trees; deters aphics, squash bugs, striped pumpkin beetles.
- Petunia: Companion to beans.
- Rosemary: Companion to cabbage, bean, carrots, and sage; deters cabbage moth, bean beetles, and carrot fly.
- Rue: Companion to roses and raspberries; deters Japanese beetles; dislikes sweet basil.
- Sage: Plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots; dislikes cucumbers; deters cabbage moth, carrot fly.
- Summer Savory: companion to beans and onions; deters bean beetles.
- Tansy: Plant under fruit trees; companion to roses and raspberries; deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and ants.
- Thyme: Companion to cabbage, deters cabbage worm.
- Wormwood: As a border, it keeps animals from the garden.
- Yarrow: Plant along borders, paths and near aromatic herbs; enhances production of essential oils.
Work and Food Gardening life don't mix!
Moving right along...
This year I again made my pilgrimage to Beauville Deer Farm in Basye, VA- where a great friend of mine, Gail Rose, took my breath away with all of the interesting varieties of veggies she is growing. These plants really do 'sing'...they are loved and are strong and healthy and I can't imagine getting my veggie plants anywhere else! This year, here are the tomatoes I am trying:
- Green Zebra (a favorite of David's because of the 'tang'. Great for cheddar cheese grill cheeses)
- Black Zebra
- Kosovo
- Aunt Gertley's
- Oaxacan Jewel
- San Marzano Extra Long
- Sokacki
- Brandywine
Gosh, how can you not love all of these names? Green Zebra is the only fave I am bringing back from last year, I hope to find a few more favorites!
OK, progress in the garden:
- Planted a 'green smoothie' garden by the door. No more flowers, I need quick access to food! So by the front steps I have swiss chard, Kale, Rose Orach, and some mini broccoli Gail recommended
- Corn- trying it this year, it is up!
- Realized I have alot of space and not enough adults to eat- so....planted shelling beans, and lentils. Why not try?!
- Planted two peppers from and Rosa Bianca eggplant from Gail.
- Carrots, beets, radishes and lettuce seeds are in.
- Onion seeds and sets are planted and coming up.
- Herb bed is planted and coming up.
- Dressed the garlic beds with more manure.
- Strawberries in planters doing GREAT.
Oustanding items to do are:
- plant cuke, sprite melons, butternut squash, gold rush zuccs, eight ball, and papaya squash.
- build squash 'lasagna' beds
- start straw bale garden beds http://www.beginner-gardening.com/straw-bale-gardening.html
OK- slowly but surely they are getting done! Ok-will take pics today and will post!
My garden - from rags to riches!
Silence = Busy = Good
Beyond getting my food garden together, I have been giving some demonstrations on Vertical Gardening at a community garden opening in Round Hill, VA and this weekend at Purcellville's Smart Market- Farmers Market- Summer Market Opening day! So between this and my own garden- there is no extra time! Oh yeah, I also spoke at my company's Earth Day event on 'Growing Your Own Food' and got lots of nice notes saying how I inspired people to garden!
So for the record, every year I deal with the same pains as everyone else does..... My garden is horribly ugly and needs SO MUCH WORK! The wind caused havoc on everything, my soil, my deer fencing, my supports,....they all need repair! So beyond needing to add organic matter to all of my beds, and new beds, I have basic garden-keeping to do. Here is a list of what I have done thus far:
- Added two massive piles of aged manure to all beds
- Created 3 new beds
- Added additional nutrients: greensand and limestone
- Replenished my (2) lasagna beds (I am totally loving this method more than appending to my existing soil)
- Made (2) lasagna beds in containters for strawberries
- Laid down weed barrier throughout garden (multiples times because of wind ripping it up!
- My dad restrung deer fencing and shored it up and made me a cool new door
- Created new bamboo planting guides for each bed (kinda like square foot gardening technique)
- Organized seeds by the beds I want to plant them in
- Started squash, cucumber, melon, eggplant, and pepper plants inside
- Planted onion sets and peas outside
- Re-freshed my worm beds and moved them back outside
For now that is all! Phew, I just broke a sweat typing this! This weekend I hope to:
- Lay hay down on all of my paths
- Create a new cucumber 'patch' with bamboo vertical supports
- Plant leeks, greens, swiss chard, and herbs
- Mow my berry patch area
- Reinforce deer fencing
- Give vertical gardening demonstration at Farmer's Market in Purcellville
(note all of this is subject to how my 3-year old and babe-in-belly feel!)
Productive weekend!
- realizing how much work I really have this season
- planted a Fuji, and enterprise apple, nectarine and pear tree
- planted 9 heritage rasberries in the old 'grape' area
- pulled down all deer fencing
- planted peas
- started cleaning up paths and re-mulching
So I am exhausted, the daffodils are up and I am EXCITED for this season!
Finishing my seed order....some interesting items
- Cutting Celery- hardy annual can be used inplace of celery adn is easier to grow.the fine green leaves and thin hollow stems are especially good to flavor soups and stews.
- Tyfon-Holland Greens- If you'd like to feed an army from an area the size of a coffee table, this may be the vegetable for you. This brassica is a cross between Chinese Cabbage and Turnips. The greens mature very rapidly to the size of a couple of feet. They can be cut early and often throughout the entire growing season. Unlike other brassica greens, Tyfon contains no mustard oil so the flavor is very mild.
- Rose Orach- HEIRLOOM Orach has been cultivated for 3000 years. It is also know as butter leaves or mountain spinach and is in fact an excellent spinach substitute. The striking plants will eventually grow to 5' in height but you can begin harvesting the leaves when the plant is very young. Indeed the most tender leaves are available before the height exceeds 18". The fully mature plant is very ornamental and can be used in dried arrangements. Orach is primarily used in salads but can also be used cooked as you would spinach.
- Merveille de Qautre Saisons- HEIRLOOM This lettuce is truly marvelous. It was the only lettuce in our trials that remained good tasting during an exceptionally dry and hot summer years ago, and continues to impress us each year we grow it. A bibb type, the leaves are wavy and light green with an overlay of red. Forms a loose 12" head with meaty texture and fine flavor.
- Pai Tsai-Fun Jen- A very early and tasty semi-spreading green that tolerates both heat and cold well. About a month after planting you begin to harvest the light green leaves. When fully mature, you can chop up the snow white stems for stir fries.
Garden Checklist- MARCH
- Starting seeds inside: I can't go into all the specifics of how to grow inside....but here are some tips- pre-moisten your soil, press seeds into survace of mix to make good contact, remember seeds don't need light to germinate, only moisture and warmth, keep flats watered, add fertilizer to water once a weeks, avoid drafts and extreme temperatures.
- Store your seeds and bulbs properly: Keep bunched onions plants in the refridgerator until ready to plant; store onion sets in cool, dark, and dry place; keep seed packets away from an over heated place until planting time.
- Think about plant protection: For tender plants in chilly weather....use of hot caps, floating row covers, or water filled shields.
- Got Asparagus? Well now is the time is to cut and shred old stalks, do a thorough weeding, stir up soil with a rake before new shoots appear, and work in fertilizer for upcoming crop.
- If you are adventurous: You can try planting peas and onions in a raised bed (provide warmer temperatures and drier area when raised) It is a gamble, but peas are tough and can tolerate a cool wet spring start. Even later in march go for spinach and lettuce....isn't the risk worth it?
So all this is leading up to Apirl which is a busy month of preparing soil, adding organic fertilizer, creating your beds, tilling, and use of cold frames....
Garden Checklist- FEBRUARY
- Start planning what you want to grow, and be realistic. First off plan your garden so it matches what you want to put into it. If you plan too big, and can't invest enough time, it will become an unsightly mess and you will get frustrated. If this is your first time, start small, but do it well, and you will build your confidenc. Once you have sketched our your beds and what you want to grow- make sure to figure out what you need to buy as seeds, and what you should buy as young plants. Note this is personal as you can grow all from seed yourself, but some need to be grown inside first (sometimes it is worth the extra money to have a nice nursery do this work for you) My rough list, things to be sown by seed: peas, beans, radish, lettuce, greens, carrots, beets, turnips, collards, kale, rutabagas, corn, vine crops, onion sets, okra, dill. Items I buy as plants: tomatoes, onions, leeks, peppers, parsley, chives, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, eggplant, and cauliflower.
- Finish placing your seed orders: Places I love to shop from are www.superseeds.com (great variety for the home gardener, interesting types, lots of container vegetables too) http://www.southernexposure.com (a local source of seeds, got some interesting walking egyptian onions last year...anything local is good to me!) www.seedsofchange.com (has a few varieties I haven't found elsewhere.....golden chard!) and www.seedsaversexchange.com (just a good overall selection and excellent customer service! If your seeds don't sprout, they will send you new ones!)
- Think about your soil.... Remember whatever improvements you make to your soil, you will receive back tenfold......So be good to your soil :) This includes testing your soil to see what nutrients you lack in (check you local extension service), and adding LOTS of organic matter. It is best to add it before the winter so it has time to break down, but anytime is good. So start adding your compost, any leaves, aged manure, grass clippings etc. If you are placing them fresh, consider learning more about the Lasagna method (http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/lasagna-gardening.html) of building a raised bed. Once you know what your soil lacks- be smart about what organic fertilizers you need like greensand, bonemeal etc (not based on what you are growing will help you decide what you need) Also, when in doubt, check the pH! That will at least give you a headstart on what needs changing. You should strive for a pH of 6.5.
- Check what time is your 'last frost date' for your area. For me in Northern Virginia, Mother's day is the 'typical safe date'.
- Sowing seeds inside: If you choose to start plants inside, make sure you have the right materials like a grow light, good seed starting soil, seed starting containers (either soil blocks or recycled containers), and you get the timing right. I once started cucumbers MUCH to early and they got long and lanky and I had to ultimately compost them, sad!
- Do some outdoor cleanup: As the weather permits, start cutting back dead growth on your herbs and such and get a head start on your plants!
- Be creative! Think about what and how you want to grow things. There are so many creative ways to grow vegetables. You may want to use raise beds, straw bale gardening (http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/no-till-gardening.html), vertical gardening, container gardening, or apply some edible landscaping principles. Just think about your space, the time you can invest and getting them started, and let your imagination go free!
So as you see February is about dreaming, planning, and getting ready for the warmer months ahead. As February comes to a close, I have:
- List of items I need to do outside
- Placed most of my seed orders
- have sketched in my garden notebook where my beds are and what I want to grow in them
- put out ads on Craig's List for mulching hay
- Inventoried my garden and fixes I need to make (like my deer fencing needs complete rework)
- Working on my 2009 garden objective.
OK- let's move onto March!
Slowly waking up....
So as the days become longer and the thought of spring is actually a possibility, it is time to start thinking about GARDEN 2009! Beyond the economic crisis, I had already planned on growing a much larger garden. Last fall I made 5 more beds, so at least alot of grunt work is done. So here are the things I know I need to do:
- Build up my new beds more. Need to add manure and leaves and other materials
- Fix and expand my deer fencing. I need to surround my new beds AND fix the winter damage -- this is going to take the most work.
- Buy and plant more blackberries and fruit trees
- Re-build my bamboo trellace. The winter storms blew them all over the place. I need to replace and tie down with wire.
- Find, buy, and spread hay/straw on my garden paths
So far, that is what my brain can muster up. My next entry I am going to list out my favorite seed and plant sources --- also I am going to start my monthy garden checklist!
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2009
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October
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- This year's Kale planting grid
- Cherry Crisp Pie Recipe
- Growing Garlic- Easy as 1,2,3
- Speaking Engagement- November 13th!
- Yogi Tea!
- Steak in a spoon- GROW MORE BEANS!
- Winter Garden Update- kale, kale and more kale!
- Capturing the Autumn Harvest- APPLESAUCE!
- Pictures from this growing season...
- Harvesting Sweet Potatoes
- Silence now Broken......
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October
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